This is a bizarre factor to say however, for those who ever get the possibility, I strongly advocate watching a supermodel dress within the morning. Oliver Cheshire has a small however attentive viewers on set as he picks out appears for immediately’s photoshoot. He’s styling it himself, as busy behind the digicam as he’s in entrance of it.
The theme: enduring warm-weather classics, most of them from the center of the 20th century. “It does put you in an excellent temper, summer season dressing,” Cheshire says, leafing by a rail of vibrant open-collar shirts, linen fits and resort put on. “It’s a relaxed model of dressing. Very simple.”
Straightforward? That’s not a well-liked opinion relating to males’s summer season garments; there are too many banana skins. Are the shorts too brief? Is my pores and skin too pale? Is the shirt too loud? Do I seem like a prat in a hat? Cheshire’s mission immediately is to point out that summer season model is not any sweat – you may be vibrant, naked your pores and skin, do unspeakable issues to a swimsuit and nonetheless look cool beneath the obvious solar.
OUTFIT CREDITS | Jacket: Mr P @ Mr Porter, Vest: Marks & Spencer, Trousers: Stella McCartney @ Mr Porter, Loafers: G.H. Bass & Co
It helps, after all, being Oliver Cheshire. One of many world’s most recognisable male fashions (and fairly probably the nicest man in menswear), Cheshire’s decade-long profession contains common walks for Dolce & Gabbana and campaigns for Calvin Klein and Hugo Boss. Nearer to house, he’s a daily face of Marks & Spencer’s menswear vary, and has simply launched his personal label.
Extra on that later as a result of he’s getting dressed once more, and it’s value paying consideration. Watching Cheshire select garments, you realise a few issues. 1) Sure he does look Photoshopped with out a prime on. 2) The explanation he can put on so many various appears isn’t simply the abs or the one-percenter bone construction. The person’s a scientist of fashion.
At work, he rearranges garments on the rack in entrance of him, research them, picks out new mixtures. The method is part-experimentation, part-instinct. Cheshire creates outfits like a chef concocts recipes, mixing components that you simply don’t suppose would work collectively however after all they do.
OUTFIT CREDITS | (LEFT) Jacket: Golden Bear @ Mr Porter, T-shirt: Marks & Spencer, Denims: Marks & Spencer, Loafers: G.H. Bass & Co (RIGHT) Rugby Shirt: Mr P @ Mr Porter, Trousers: Marks & Spencer
“I’m very into it,” he admits. “I’m at all times trying on the menswear reveals and while you take an curiosity in something, you perceive it.”
He began younger. He realized to stitch as a teen, customising his garments in order that they have been all one-of-a-kind. “I’d lower the tab out of the again of my Levi’s, then lower a gap on the entrance and stitch it in. My mates have been at all times taking the piss.”
Right this moment, he’s a strolling Wikipedia of menswear, which might be why his model is so eclectic. At FashionBeans, we as soon as described him because the “bastard who appears good in something”. We stand by it. He’s pristine in a tux, however wore snakeskin cowboy boots to the Brits and made them look good. He does camp brief shorts and hard-to-wear prints, and mixes sportswear and tailor-made items higher than anybody we all know.
OUTFIT CREDITS | Shirt: Ché Studios, Shorts: Ché Studios, Sneakers: Marks & Spencer
He’s additionally a magpie. Greater than as soon as throughout the shoot he fires up Pinterest for inspiration and admits tune he hears on the radio can determine what he wears that day. “Music and movies actually do affect the best way I costume. I can take heed to rock n roll music within the morning and need to put a leather-based jacket on. If I put a rap tune on, I’ll be strolling out of the home in a pair of trainers and a hoodie. It’s bizarre.”
On set immediately, we’re listening to Buddy Holly, Little Richard and Jerry Lee Lewis. There’s a hazy late ’50s vibe and, in entrance of the digicam, Cheshire is dressed for it. The rails are filled with mid-century summer season gear – his favourites are a knitted button-through polo and a striped open-collar knit – classics that look pretty much as good within the solar immediately as they did half a century in the past.
“It was some of the fashionable eras of American historical past,” Cheshire says. “And it went in every single place as a result of that was actually the primary time trend was so seen, so closely documented.” This was the delivery of youth tradition, of tv and the emergence of the world’s first international model icons, folks like James Dean and Elvis Presley.
OUTFIT CREDITS | Shirt: Marks & Spencer, Trousers: Reiss
“Once they first appeared, they wearing a approach that anybody may copy. It was the primary time males may actually get pleasure from informal costume and use it to insurgent. And it’s not scary. Even for those who’re not vastly into menswear, it’s simple to throw on a pair of denims a white T-shirt and a bomber jacket. And these appears may be redone in so some ways.”
Living proof: Cheshire’s new label, Ché. It’s a small however good assortment of resort put on, a bullseye instance of methods to costume nicely when the solar’s out. It’s retro however trendy, tailor-made however snug, vibrant however elegant, easy but in addition very good. The swim shorts are created from an eco-friendly nylon made out of reused fishing nets whereas the shirts – which are sometimes a part of an identical co-ord set – are lower from tender, breathable viscose.
Inspiration got here from just a few locations however certainly one of them was mid-century America. “I actually love ’50s and ’60s NBA,” he says. “All the colors, the shapes, that retro really feel – however with trendy cuts in order that they’re extra wearable. I additionally wished to make use of actually wealthy colors – deep darkish oranges, pinks – and present males methods to use them.”
OUTFIT CREDITS | Blazer: Marks & Spencer, Shirt: Marks & Spencer
The child who used to chop up his Levi’s has at all times wished to provide his personal menswear label, however turning 30 in 2018 gave Cheshire the impetus to lastly get Ché off the bottom. He helped supply the supplies, created in depth temper boards and marshalled a group not simply to provide the garments however create an internet site, construct a advertising and marketing marketing campaign and a pop-up store. “I wished to know the entire course of,” he says.
Cheshire is maturing. He’s planning his marriage ceremony to singer Pixie Lott, who is likely to be the one one who will get a say in how he clothes. “Oh yeah, she hates me in vests,” he says. “She’ll see me sporting one and be like, ‘Get that bloody factor off. You’re not sporting that out, are you?’ She’ll inform me if I’m going a bit a lot with a glance. She’ll say, ‘You look a bit …wacky.’”
Cheshire is clearly a assured dresser however says he can really feel his model evolving as he will get older. “While you’re younger you experiment with model. You dip your toe in, not likely realizing what fits you. I do discover myself eager to make a pleasant impression and simply really feel like an grownup.”
He pauses. “However I nonetheless like to experiment and I’m by no means going to be the type of individual to simply put on a swimsuit for the remainder of my life. That’s what garments are about, aren’t they? It ought to be a pleasurable factor, getting dressed.”
OUTFIT CREDITS | Jumper: Vacation Boileau, Shorts: Marks & Spencer, Sneakers: Mannequin’s Personal, Surfboard: Quiksilver
Oliver Cheshire’s 7 Summer season Model Guidelines
Go Straightforward On Tendencies
“I at all times take a look at traits,” Cheshire says. “I’m curious about them and the place they arrive from. However I don’t consider in making an attempt all of them out. They need to be joyful accidents. If saggy trousers are in, that doesn’t imply you modify your complete wardrobe so you may put on extra saggy trousers.”
And you may change your thoughts. For years, Cheshire bared his ankles with summer season trousers however he’s had a change of coronary heart. “I used to be at all times no socks, now I’m all for them. Love a white sock.”
Rethink The Summer season Go well with
“Tailoring won’t ever go away however fits have turn out to be much less structured. You don’t have large shoulder pads weighing you down. It’s virtually sporty. They virtually flip right into a tracksuit, and that’s what I believe a contemporary swimsuit ought to be.
“M&S has received wonderful linen mix fits in the intervening time that are available in pastels. They don’t crease as a lot, they’re tender shouldered. I put on them to Wimbledon, the polo however they’re additionally good to combine and match. You may take the linen trousers and put on them with, say, a tucked-in T-shirt and a pair of trainers. Straightforward to decorate down.”
You Can Be Sensible Even At The Pool
“I like tailor-made swim shorts,” Cheshire says. Those he designed for Ché are snug with an elasticated waistband as a result of who doesn’t need to calm down on vacation? However they’re additionally lower straight and clear, ending on the mid-thigh.
Put on them with sliders on the pool, he says, leather-based sandals in every single place else.
OUTFIT CREDITS | Jacket: Maison Kitsune, Vest: Marks & Spencer, Necklace: Miansai
Be Vibrant, Not Garish
There are a variety of loud prints and eye-popping colors in retailers in the intervening time. Cheshire thinks it’s an excellent factor, but in addition provides a phrase of warning. “A vibrant Hawaiian shirt is nice, however don’t go too vibrant. One thing wearable, you understand what I imply? Muted greens and blacks. Blood purple.”
Keep away from The Vacationer Traps
“Males at all times go straight for beige trousers in the summertime however there are such a lot of nicer colors you may attempt,” Cheshire says. “Stone is a way more trendy approach of doing it.”
He’s additionally a fan of linen trousers, which have a foul rep. “Yeah, they have been unhealthy as a result of they used to crease so simply. Now there are new supplies about that make them breathable. 100 per cent wonderful. Linen mix trousers are the one you need.”
Decide The Proper Sample
There’s a complete menagerie of prints and patterns in menswear this summer season, from loopy florals to snarling leopard print. They’re all eye-catching, however Cheshire prefers one that really flatters you. “I actually like vertical stripe T-shirts – been sporting them lots these days. They elongate the physique.”
At all times Learn The Invitation
“I undoubtedly costume for occasions,” he says, and particularly in summer season. “Weddings, Wimbledon. I at all times costume for events, at all times. Learn the invite. I need to slot in however on the similar time, I need to really feel elegant there. It’s that basic factor – you placed on the suitable swimsuit and also you simply really feel good.”
OUTFIT CREDITS | (TOP) Jacket: Ralph Lauren, Sun shades: Cutler & Gross, Vest: Marks & Spencer (LEFT) Shirt: Marks & Spencer, Necklace: Miansai (RIGHT) Shorts: Ché Studios, Seaside Bat: Frescobol Carioca
Styling: Oliver Cheshire
Images: Simon Lipman
Photographer’s assistant: Kai Gurung
Digital assistant: Gemma Gravett
Artwork route: Luke Sampson
Trend assistant: Richard Jones
Grooming: Shauna Taggart & James Harknett