Blown away by Eire’s windy and wondrous north west

Blown away by Eire's windy and wondrous north west

It is simple to overlook your worries once you plunge into the depths of Lough Gill.

s I pressured my physique into the lake, the icy slap of the water hit me like a truck, vanquishing my skill to think about something apart from how bloody chilly I used to be. There is a motive wild swimming is pegged as a type of remedy – it is just about inconceivable to really feel something, good or unhealthy, once you’re so chilly you possibly can barely keep in mind your individual identify.

However then, simply as my extremities went numb, I regarded round and remembered how stunning Lough Gill actually is. The rugged Sligo mountains rising from either side. The tiny, tree-filled islands scattered alongside its floor. The reeds that sway and cling to the sting of the shore. The entire rattling factor is sort of a visible Valium.

Sligo is all the time the place I’ve gone to clear my head. It was my yard till I moved to Dublin not too long ago. Every time instances are tough, I’ve drawn solace from the odor of the chilly, damp air, the forests stuffed with big timber, the reliable pounding of the surf. Which is why, when Dublin was launched from Lockdown, it was one of many first locations I went. And Lough Gill was prime of the hitlist. And why, whereas we’re in Stage 5, my thoughts retains going again there.

You do not have to threat hypothermia to expertise it, although – the quite a few forest trails round its edges give all of the views with not one of the frostbite. Although I’ve walked Dooney Rock numerous instances, I solely not too long ago found another route, to the proper of the automobile park, that leads you up a steep thicket of towering tree trunks to 2 little benches that overlook Cottage Island.

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I assumed I knew that stretch of lakeshore just like the again of my hand, however this little patch was utterly new.


An expensive yurt at Lough Mardal, Co Donegal

It felt like Yosemite, the thick tree trunks wizened like mammoth legs, blanketed in swathes of brilliant inexperienced bracken. After I reached the lake under, I occurred upon tiny little non-public bays, with crumbling, moss-covered jetties and effective pebbles lapped at by gin-clear water.

For a very long time, Sligo was in need of lodging with a component of cool. However that is all altering. In Rosses Level, for instance, a brand new arrival arrange store in 2017, combining a seafood restaurant with some bedrooms upstairs.

The Driftwood ( introduced a way of boutique allure that was missing from the (relatively stuffy) village of Rosses Level. The principle restaurant is flooded with gentle and undeniably stylish – assume uncovered brick partitions, marble tables and plush inexperienced banquettes – however the rooms upstairs are even higher, with roll-top baths within the bed room and quirky artwork.

If you happen to’re speaking baths in Sligo, you possibly can’t ignore the Voya Seaweed Baths (attributable to reopen December;

Positive, I’ve gone dozens of instances over time, however the attraction of sinking right into a scorching scorching bathtub that oozes with seaweed by no means will get previous. And the stroll afterwards, alongside the blustery shoreline of Strandhill, is sort of a wake-up name for each cell in your physique, which leaves you aching for a hearty feed.

A lot as I like Strandhill’s Shells Cafe (and ceaselessly fall asleep dreaming of its garlicky lemon hen burger), it is usually inconceivable to get a desk on busy days. Its new-ish brother cafe Baker Boys (, nonetheless, is true on the sting of Sligo city. Blissfully spacious and calm even when it is hopping, this spot is simply what Sligo wanted. The menu is stuffed with issues like towering, citrusy fish burgers and avocado toast alongside shiny, lacquered Danish pastries and sugar-dusted cronuts the scale of a child’s head.

The best factor? Its Finisklin location means you could get straight out on the highway once more once you’re achieved, relatively than deal with the hellscape that’s the one-way system in Sligo city. Donegal is just some miles north, and you’ll be up in Lough Mardal Lodge ( inside the hour, hugging the shoreline alongside Mullaghmore and Grange, passing by the dramatic ridges of Benbulben.

If you happen to shut your eyes and movie the proper winter wonderland, the yurts at Lough Mardal would tick each field. Thick, faux-fur throws prime the beds, twinkling fairy lights weave among the many lattice partitions, and a wood-burning range fills the dome with heat and a flickering amber glow. The day I arrived was Baltic, however inside seconds I used to be as toasty as a marshmallow, plonked by the fireplace with a glass of wine in my hand.


The Driftwood, the most recent arrival in Rosses Level

Between Bundoran and Donegal city, Lough Mardal is the gatekeeper for the remainder of the county. From there, you weave by means of numerous beautiful sights as you make your method to the very tip of Eire. Glenveagh Nationwide Park has the type of otherworldly allure that makes you wish to throw on an Aran jumper and Dubarry boots, and stomp across the rocky peaks and serene lakes such as you’re modelling for the vacationer board. Driving by means of it, even within the pounding rain, you are met with the type of magnificence that makes you endlessly proud to stay on these shores.

There is not any doubt that Donegal has lots working in its favour. The sprawling, desolate great thing about this county is as magical as it’s beguiling. However one factor it lacks? Sufficient respectable locations to eat. All the great eating places are out-the-door well-liked – which makes reservations frustratingly robust to get.

I spent a night additional north making name after name to try to snag a desk for dinner – with no pleasure. The few locations that have been open midweek (and low season) have been booked strong, and so I ended up in my pyjamas with a Chinese language takeaway.

However a disappointing meal is quickly forgotten once you’re on the prime of Horn Head. The color of the heather-strewn clifftops was altering by the second because the gray clouds approached, turning what was inexperienced mere seconds in the past right into a sludgy, slatey brown.

I am removed from dainty – however mere moments after I reached the height I used to be lifted clear off my ft and dumped again to earth just a few inches away. The energy of the wind was unimaginable, as have been the sheets of sharp rain as they swept over the ocean and pelted down on my head.

As I raced again to the automobile, the clouds handed over me as soon as extra. Seven minutes later, the sky was such an excellent shade of blue that the heather was glowing within the sunshine, and the one reminiscence of the rain got here from my sodden jacket. The ocean that swirled in opposition to the underside of the cliffs was impossibly blue, and the storm that handed was only a reminiscence.

NB: Nicola travelled as a visitor of The Driftwood ( and Lough Mardal ( Each locations plan to reopen after December 1, however test on new opening instances. Charges at The Driftwood begin from €75, and yurts at Lough Mardal begin from €120

three locations to go to

1 The household pleasant woodland stroll in Sligo’s Hazelwood is all the time a winner, and the complete 3km loop makes for a pleasingly strong stroll.

2 The adorably tiny Cosgrove’s (071 914 2809) is a Sligo deli that is been on the go since 1898. Head there to choose up all of the charcuterie, artisan cheese and cabinet necessities to maintain you going.

three If you happen to’re down in Easky, Pudding Row ( is a captivating cafe with impeccable dishes (and killer candy treats), presently doing takeaways solely.

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